To index of "travel stories" | To my home page
I went by an anarchist ateneu in the Barri Xines, in Carrer d'En Robador (street address is number 25 if you are looking for it), which some people consider the worst street in Barcelona. Heavy red light district stuff. I didn't have any problems. Met a few people, all in all it was pretty interesting, even though I ended up sitting through a tedious 90 minute planning meeting for an event, one of these groups which seems to do everything in committee. At least the meeting was in Castilian Spanish so I could follow the conversation.
Although there seem to be quite a few anarchists in this city, and there are two anarchist councils of trade unions (CNT, Concilio Nacional de Trabajadores, is distinct from the more nominally anarchist CGT, Concilio General de Trabajadores. The communist, or post-communist, unions constitute the CCOO, Comisiones de Obreros. The UGT, Union General de Trabajadores, used to be associated with the Socialists, but I went its own way when the Socialists became a serious contender for electoral power.) and several ateneus (basically clubhouses), not to mention several okupas (squats), including a former movie theater, they seem remarkably isolated. The mainstream news kiosks carry no alternative press and there is no equivalent of something like Seattle's Stranger to bridge any of the gap. Also the local homeless street paper, La Farola (the streetlight) is kind of mainstream itself. A recent issue had a good article on scams hiding in the help wanted section of the paper, but very little on actual conditions of the homeless. They seem to be trying to avoid confrontation (La Farola, not the anarchists).
By their own description, most of their literature passes hand to hand, although there is a very good anarchist bookstore, also in the Barri Xines, El Lokal, at C/ de la Cera, 1. Except for a few wall posters and one or two well-laid-out zines (from among a sea of not-so-well-laid-out zines), it tends to look very amateur, not that they should be pros, but a lot looks like from the days of mimeo machines even though it's photocopied. By the way, for anyone who may want to be in touch with El Lokal, they have e-mail, firstname.lastname@example.org. They look like a good contact point for the Catalan anarchist community. [Addendum 2002: There is now an English-language web page about El Lokal .]
It was interesting to know that the Ateneu in Carrer d'En Robador includes some members who actually fought in the anarchist militias in the Guerra Civil. That means they must be in their 80s or so by now.
There's also an occupied ex-cinema in the Via Laietana, but so far I've only seen it from the outside. I hope to check out an event there before I leave town, but there aren't too many. [Addendum July '96: Never got to one. Oh, well. ] [Addendum 2000: And of course it was gone by the next time I got to Barcelona, in 1999.]
<<< Prev | Next >>>
First posted: August 1996
Last modified: April 5, 2002
To index of "travel stories" / Back to my home email@example.com
All materials copyright © 1996, 2002 Joseph L. Mabel
All rights reserved.
"copyleft": With appropriate notification and appropriate credit, non-commercial reproduction is welcome: contact me if you have any desire to reproduce these materials in whole or in part.